Toronto’s Italian ice capades

1ST PLACE
PRIMO

IL GELATIERE, 647A Mt. Pleasant Rd., 416-488-2663
Chef Capra’s ruddy, expressive face is almost as well-known as his stylized whiskers, but the moment he tastes this masterpiece from il gelatiere, he turns suddenly grave. “Oh,” he utters. Pause. “That tastes good.” Recovered, he gushes about the roasted pistachio flavour, perfect density and subtle sweetness. “This says, ‘I am a pistachio,’” declares Capra. “A very good ice cream — and I don’t much care for pistachios.” Now that’s praise. Flavour: Pistachio, $3.81

SECONDI PLACE


Novecento, 1228 St. Clair Ave. W.
“When you finish, you don’t feel the milkiness, you taste the chocolate, and it carries over,” says Capra. Ferrero Rocher–inspired mixture makes for one happy taste-tester. Donatella, $4.34

GOURD & PLENTY


Gelato Fresco
, 60 Tycos Dr.
“It tastes like fall, absolute October,” says Capra of this pumpkin-flavoured delight. “I’m at a pumpkin festival right now.” The “beautiful butterscotch colour” earns high praise, too. Pumpkin, $5 for 500ml

BURIED PLEASURE


La Paloma
, 1357 St. Clair Ave. W.
“This is a complete kids’ treat. There’s just so much stuff in it,” he says of the chunks of chocolate and nuts hidden within. In all, maybe a touch too sweet for an adult palate. Rocher Caterina, $4

MINOR AIR-OR


Hollywood Gelato
, 1640 Bayview Ave.
“This one’s moussey, with a lot of air in it,” says Capra. “It definitely says summer.” Still, Capra’s not sure how the nuts fit into the dish. Good, not great. Hazelnut, $3.75